Day of Victory

“Africa is the future” said Charaf Tajer, creative director of Casablanca as he paid tribute to Nigeria on his Spring Summer 24 show. This happened on October 1st, Nigeria’s Independence Day - our day of “Victory”. This also coincidently fell during Paris Fashion Week, where it was showcased.

Tajer was inspired by the vibrancy of Nigeria and its culture. Bright greens, yellows, oranges, and reds/pinks which were the dominating colors on the runway. Color blocking and gradients fused these tones together beautifully and gave the collection a whimsical feel.

Tajer had an integral part of Nigerian culture as the base of the entire collection, Fela Kuti, the Godfather of Afrobeat (not to be mixed with Afrobeats). As a global musician and activist through the '70s-'90s, we can see Tajer dedicating a

part of this line to this time, specifically the 70’s. Seun Kuti, musician, and son of Fela, made a debut on the runway in Look 33. He was wearing a vintage-inspired one-piece jumpsuit, reminiscent of Fela’s form-fitting, monochromatic looks he often performed in.

Beadwork is a staple in the textile industry across many tribes in Nigeria, so it was interesting to see that incorporated into the collection.

More specifically in the Benin/ Edo culture, the coral beads were once a sign of nobility and honorary title. Today, it is popular during traditional wedding ceremonies where we see the bride dripped from head to toe in these beads. (Shout out to my tribe <3) The orange beading in Look 11 and Look 17 reminded me so much of Benin coral beads. The color blocking of the tank and shorts further emphasizes the complex use of style and color in this line.

Helmets, racer jackets, and Casa Sport pieces were featured in the show’s moto section. Which was said to be inspired by the speed riders on the streets during his visit to Lagos. I will say I’ve also noticed similar pieces make a small resurgence on runways. Look 46 - a printed button-up showing the hustle and bustle of a city, with the Danfo as its main focus is probably one of my favorite pieces. These minibusses flood the streets of Nigeria, especially Lagos, as a popular means of public transportation.

I can really see how Nigerian culture was amplified through this line but Casablanca also remained true to its brand. A job well done if you ask me. Throughout the show, we saw loose resort-style wear, suits of all styles, and that classic tennis look that the brand sells. Overall, I really enjoyed the show and definitely gave Chafar Tajer his props for digging deeper as a designer. Continue to part 2 to read more about my personal views on the Day of Victory.

Is it really Victory?

The celebration of independence in Nigeria is an interesting topic now as we come up on 3 years of the End Sars protests that took place from October 8th-20th, 2020. For days, Nigerians protested for their human rights which almost feels in vain. Is it really victory as we mourn and remember those lost in the fight against police brutality? In my opinion, it almost feels like tone deafness, as my poor country continues on a decline.

Many little things that I feel the Casablanca team could have done to truly show appreciation to Nigeria. Fela Kuti was a big part of the collection and to have his son in the show, but not even play the entire song, Shuffering and Shmiling is a small example of something that could have amplified the voices of the voiceless. This song discusses the real issues Nigerians had back in 1979 and STILL go through to this day. While this was meant to celebrate culture, was it really appreciation or a slick means of European appropriation that we're used to?

This brings me to another point - the why behind using Nigeria as inspiration. Tajer discussed in an interview with Vogue his wanting to step into the big leagues, but what does that mean? He felt he needed something to set him and his brand apart. We recently saw Pharrell’s debut collection for LV dripping in black culture, so there’s no doubt that certain proximity to any blackness is highly marketable. Capitalism my friends.. LOL but let's not forget the current issues with multiple African countries, including Nigeria's neighbor Niger, taking a stance against France and it's post-colonial reign. Which has always been a means of capitalism and greed by Western countries, laughable seeing that this collection debuted during Paris Fashion Week.

Liberate Africa. 63 years is enough. Long live the liberators. No invasion of Niger. All united for a free Niger.

When I took a look at the team from collection creation to runway, I saw one Nigerian name and African for that matter. Don’t get me wrong this was a beautiful collection, but the involvement of black voices could have brought an authentic cultural experience to the main stage. That's what this line felt like it was missing, authenticity. There is already a lack of black faces in the fashion world, and this was the perfect opportunity to have them in the forefront. Things like this are what pose the question of appreciation or appropriation, but who knows?

Nonetheless, Chafar Tajer and his team did a good job of showing us that yes - Africa is the Future, but again I ask is it really victory?